RET and what it means for the Caravanner, the Motor Caravanner, and the Islands

On 26th October 2015, RET was rolled out across the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry network in Scotland.

What's RET then? I'm glad you asked. It's Road Equivalent Tariff, that's what it is. The blurb says that it's something to do with trying to equate the cost of taking the ferry with driving the same distance. The simple reality is that the fares have tumbled, in some cases dramatically so.

RET is not new. It has been going for a while on a few of the 'long haul' routes like Barra, Tiree, and Lewis. Arran joined the Club recently. Now all the islands, and INTER island routes, will benefit from RET.

So what does this mean to the caravanner, and the motor caravanner?

Let's look at a three comparisons. We'll look at the popular route to the Isle of Mull, the hop over to the Isle of Raasay, and the link between the Isle of Harris and North Uist. The comparison fares are for my personal circumstances, so that is a 4x4 truck, an 8m caravan, and one adult:

MULL: Oban to Craignure standard return
WAS:  £267.30
NOW: £71.90


RAASAY: Sconser to Raasay standard return
WAS: £79.60
NOW: £34.20

HARRIS to NORTH UIST: Leverburgh to Berneray standard single
WAS: £94.00
NOW: £36.35

So looking at the Mull crossing, that is a WHOPPING £195.40 reduction in the fare. The ferry crossing to Mull with a caravan will cost about 30% of the 2015 price in 2016. WOW!

The inter-island routes also open up the possibility of affordable day trips between islands. Last year I couldn't believe that to take just my motorbike and myself from North Uist to Harris for the day (for a Temple Cafe or Skoon Art Cafe fix) was going to cost £42.75 (5-day return). In 2016 the same return will cost me £20.10.

This is terrific news for caravanners, motor caravanners, motorists, bikers, and of course for the islanders themselves.

HOWEVER!

There is always a but. And in the interests of fairness to all, let's talk about that 'but'.

When RET was rolled out to the likes of Barra and Tiree a few years back, the fares tumbled in a similarly dramatic fashion. Tourers, especially camper vans that travel for the same price as a solo car, headed for the islands in their droves.

The only problem was, neither Barra nor Tiree was set up to accept this amount of tourers. Folks would wild camp around the islands. Beforehand, as there were only one or two campers, it was never a problem. Suddenly, swathes of heavy vehicles and caravans were blotting the landscape and, more importantly, destroying it. Machair is fragile, and it wasn't long before erosion set in.

After a bit of an uncomfortable transition period, Tiree and Barra now welcome more caravans and motor caravans than ever before, thanks to a new network of camping-crofts and campsites. Wild camping has effectively been stopped.

There are some wonderful sites on Mull - click on 'Mull' in the word jumble to the right to see where I stayed in 2012. However, even in 2012 the small road between Craignure and Tobermory was already very busy. I wonder how it's going to cope. But I implore the responsible camper to use the official sites wherever possible, and spend that money you saved on the ferry fare on the island. £195 can more than cover your site fees and industrial quantities of cake for an entire week.

if you've never visited the beautiful Scottish Islands and have always fancied it, then wait no more. 2016 really is the year to make it happen. Enjoy.

Tùras math dhuibh.  

 

Camping and Caravanning on the Isle of Harris (and a bit of Barra. And North Uist)

January 2015


Further to the last blog entry, here's a more information-biased entry for those looking at bringing their caravan or motor caravan to the Outer Hebrides.

This entry is a partial update to my 2012 Guide to Caravanning in the Outer Hebrides. I say 'partial' as once you get South of Benbecula there are new sites around that I have yet to properly mention.

Right now, I want to talk about the Isle of Harris. Without doubt, this is my favourite island in the Outer Hebrides. To the North you have the dramatic North Harris Hills, to the West you have gorgeous white sandy beaches, and to the East you have an almost lunar rocky landscape. On top of that, there are three fantastic places to eat and spend an afternoon with a good book and enjoy a friendly chat:

Skoon Art Cafe 

Temple Cafe

and a new addition to my favourites list:

Hebscape Gallery Tea Room


Despite Harris being the nicest island, your options for camping and caravanning are limited. There is no such thing as the perfect site here, each site has its good points and bad points, and that's the point of this article.

First off, a bit of background:

The landscape is, as previously mentioned, beautiful. However, that also makes it very difficult to find any naturally flat area to park a caravan or motorhome. Levelling out pitches is a very, VERY costly process. This cost is passed on to the camper. As such, while people expect camping on the islands to be cheaper than on the mainland, the opposite applies. I find it far more expensive on Harris than on the mainland.

Here are the sites, starting near Tarbert (the main ferry port) and heading clockwise around the lower part of the island:

MINCH VIEW

It's been five years since I've been here but I don't think much has changed. It's a small, CL-style site with basic facilities and four EHUs. The big downsides are the boggy ground, and the very tight entrance as you turn off the road. I only just about managed it with a 7ft6 wide single axle.


LICKISTO BLACKHOUSE AND CAMPING

Lots to like here. Friendly hosts, great view, sheltered from the worst of the Westerly winds, and a 'Blackhouse' which is the focus of the campsite in the evening; a place to use the kitchen, meet other campers, and relax. Good facilities.
Downsides? None if you're a tent camper. A couple if you're in a leisure vehicle. The hardstanding area for caravans and motor caravans is the size of a postage stamp. Single axle caravans only, and you'll need a motor mover or need to be able to manhandle your van. Large units (eg tag axle motorhomes) need not apply. There's only the space for 3 vans, no awnings, and any cars will have to be left on the road. No chemical loo disposal (you need to go to Leverburgh to empty the loo) and it's £20 per night for two people in a van.

FLODABAY FARM

A warm welcome from Tony and Sharon, hardstanding, stunning views, chemical loo disposal point, and electric hook-ups.

That's the good stuff. The not-so-good stuff:
£25 per night inc EHU - this is for a site with no shower or toilet facility. Wow.
There are five pitches, not three as on the website. No tents allowed.
Access involves a long drive along the single-track 'Golden Road' down the East Coast of the island - not for the faint-hearted.
The road to the pitches is up a very, VERY sharp incline. 4x4s essential. Motor caravans need plenty of oomph and a robust clutch.


HORGABOST CAMPSITE

This is the wildest, largest, cheapest (but that isn't saying much) and most relaxed campsite in Harris. You can't book, you just turn up.

Well-drained grass pitches, but only a few tent pitches (and a couple of motor caravan pitches 'up top') have a sea view. However, location is what this site is all about - right on the beautiful sandy beach with the stunning backdrop of the North Harris Hills and the island of Taransay rising out of the sea.

Facilities are adequate, based in old shipping containers. Showers are £1 (but you'd only use them if you don't have on board facilities) and there are loos and a washing up area. WCs are wheelchair accessible.

Downsides? It's a flat fee of £14/night for a caravan/motorhome. That's not great if, like me, you're on your own. There are no EHUs, and nowhere to empty the loo (back to Leverburgh...). The site is littered with seasonal caravans, and as there is no on-site staff presence, there is nobody to keep unruly campers in check late at night. I hasten to add that I have NEVER been disturbed by anti-social behaviour here. Facing North West, the site can get battered by the wind forcing tent campers to scuttle over to Lickisto.


WILD CAMPING

There is a great scheme that has been introduced by the West Harris Trust. You're welcome to Wild Camp in certain spots, but are expected to make a super-reasonable contribution of £5 per night for the privilege. This is a great idea.

The downsides are: The areas are just off the road (i.e. laybys) so there isn't much room, and everything (fresh water, waste water, rubbish) needs to be carried in and carried out. OK for a night stop, not a realistic alternative to a camp site for longer stays.


So there you have the current (2014/15) camping situation on the island of Harris.

I conclude this entry with two alternatives if the actual campsite, or value for money, are of high importance to you.

The BEST CAMPSITE in the Outer Hebrides in my humble opinion is Moorcroft Campsite, in the South West corner of North Uist. Great views, super facilities, friendly owners, easy access, reasonable pricing... THIS is the campsite to come to if you have a large (twin axle) or a wide (8ft) caravan as the road from Lochmaddy ferry terminal is almost completely two-way. You can leave the 'van here and explore seven causeway-linked islands unencumbered. Kilbride campsite down in South Uist is also a nice, clean, neatly-presented site, but is less central.

The BEST VALUE campsite in the Outer Hebrides is Scurrival (Scuribhal) campsite at Eoligarry at the North East tip of Barra. The friendly owner Angus-John charges by the person, not by the unit. Therefore in 2014 I ended up paying £5 per night which included brilliant facilities - big en-suite shower rooms and a kitchen with two washing up sinks. No laundry facilities though (2014).

Fantastic views, and EHUs at £4/n if you want them. I stayed six nights, and was charged the same as I was for one night at Flodabay Farm. But, to be fair, no expensive quarrying and levelling has been necessary at Scurrival.



So there you have it... I hope that's been of some use to you. You have the info... now all you need to do is decide when you're coming!

Hebrides 2014

May/June 2014

Here we go... event of the year, my trip to paradise and the islands I find so totally and utterly irresistable. Since discovering the Outer Hebrides in 2009, I've completely lost the desire to go anywhere else. When I do go other places, my reaction is normally: 'Well, it's nice, but it's not the Outer Hebrides...'

 I'd not been to Ullapool since that first trip five years ago. It's a gorgeous little town that warrants a longer stay yet, just like the North End of Skye, I never hang around because I know what riches lie just across The Minch (the sea between the mainland and the islands).

I thought I'd be smart and fill up with diesel in Ullapool HOW MUCH???!!!!

I later found out that fuel is much cheaper in Stornoway. Nothing to do with cost of the raw material or transportation then, all to do with local competition. In other words, you get ripped off in places where there is little competition. Like Ullapool.

The last time I travelled on Caledonian MacBrayne's ferry 'Isle of Lewis', it was still a couple of years BC (Before Canine). I LOVE Caledonian MacBrayne for many reasons, one of which is that you don't need to leave your dog in the car or in a kennel, you can take it upstairs with you where there is special pet lounge.

I have to say, the Pet Lounge on the mv Isle of Lewis is my least favourite so far, as there are no windows. Let's hope the new ferry that takes up the route in 2015, mv Loch Seaforth, will be nicer. I'll certainly be giving that a go. The mv Hebrides (from Uig in Skye) and the mv Clansman and the mv Lord of the Isles (from Oban) have much nice dog lounges. The mv Finlaggan is OK (to Islay) but on there you can't escape annoying televisions blaring out.

Arrival in Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, was at a temporary berth while the main pier was being altered for the arrival of the mv Loch Seaforth on the run. As such, there was a mighty angle in the loading ramp, but the deck crew were outstanding. I was told to take my time and had 'deckies' checking from four angles as I inched the Airstream off the ramp and onto the pier. Chocks were put into place where necessary, and we were off without grounding or any problems whatsoever.  Have I mentioned I love Caledonian MacBrayne?

Our destination was 90 minutes away towards the South of the Isle of Harris, but all the main services are here in Stornoway. Dougal had been limping off and on since hurting his paw in Brora so our first call was to the vet. Luckily I remembered that there is a large car park near the vet by the BBC Alba studios so I could park the entire rig for an hour without anybody minding. Otherwise, if you need to leave your rig for the day in Stornoway, there is paid Large Vehicle Parking Area behind Engebret's Garage. Everyone knows Engebret's and it's easy to find online.

With no fault found to Dougal's paw (probably a sympathy ploy to get more treats, that dog isn't daft) we headed South to Harris. To keep this entry short enough to be readable, I'll describe the camping on the island in a later blog entry.

My friends G&C joined me in Harris with their Vanmaster Caravan. We had a fantastic week. Plenty of walking, eating, drinking, and photo opportunities.

 

C *loves* cooking and I happen to love eating, so for an entire week I was spared making my own dinner. He was amazed that the local Co-Op in Leverburgh in the South of Harris had almost everything he needed, no matter how exotic the dish. Like any responsible caravanner, his aim was to buy all his food locally to ease loading the caravan and support the local economy.

When eating out, we alternated between my two favourite cafes in the whole world, EVER. They are:

Skoon Art Cafe in Geocrab

Temple Cafe in Northton

These two establishments are instrumental in my choice to stay on Harris instead of another island.

It was incredibly sad to see G&C leave on the Friday after one week. I decided to head South to the Uists on the Sunday. Meanwhile, it was that Saturday I sat outside Temple Cafe and witnessed the arrogant idiots that angered me so and inspired me to bash out the blog entry 'How Dare You'. I was fuming.

Come the next day I hitched up the Airstream and parked up at Northton to enjoy a crafty kitesurf. Little did I know that this would never happen again... you'll have to wait for the 'Hebrides Winter 2014' entry to find out why!

After yet another beautiful lunch at Temple Cafe (accompanied by farewells, hugs, and maybe a tear or two on my part) I boarded the ferry over to Berneray.


There are no camp sites on Berneray, so CalMac has provided a free service point for Caravans and Motor Caravans. Have I mentioned I love Caledonian MacBrayne?

I snuck off down to the dunes to camp, and apart from doing my usual 'clean up' of the area (happily there was hardly any litter to clear this time) I really wished that there was an Honesty Box or something so that people who want to contribute back to the island in exchange for the free camping are able to do so. A brilliant scheme works in West Harris that allows this.


Next day, I went down to Moorcroft Campsite on North Uist for a couple of days. Moorcroft remains one of my favourite sites in the Outer Hebrides. I always get such a warm welcome from the owners Iain and Catriona, and they even indulge me and let me try out my pigeon Gàidhlig on them.

Once again I had a fantastic kitesurf in the shallow waters off the campsite:

I had planned to stay a little longer in the Uists but I ended up charging down to the island of Barra as I wanted to catch an old acquaintance, Christine, before she left the island. I met Christine on that first trip five years ago, and she spends every summer on Barra in her Coachman Caravan. She's been doing that for more years than she cares to remember, and is a font of all local knowledge.

A funny thing happened on my way to Barra. First of all, let's just say that quite a few folks in the islands, both resident and visitors, know of 'The Man with the Silver Caravan'. Second, people in the islands are lovely anyway, and many will wave when you're passing even if you've never met before.

As ever, I took my time when the road was single track, and if I ever saw anyone coming the other way or behind me, I'd be the first to pull over. After all, I'm obviously on holiday with an Airstream on the back. That other person is likely to be a resident who simply wants to get from A to B.

Today, though, it seemed that the waves from the drivers (and passengers) were more enthusiastic than ever. I was a little puzzled. Had I met some of these people? Then, as I allowed a car coming the other way to pass, the occupants stopped alongside and wound down their window:

'Great blog Andrew!' the driver shouted. I felt humbled. It appears that not only do folks actually read this, but it also looks like the entry I wrote with steam coming out my ears ('How Dare You') struck a chord with a LOT of other people too. Aw shucks.


I'd not returned to Barra (other than a day trip) since 2010. In 2010 wild camping was stopped on the island, yet the campsites were not really ready to accept caravans and motor caravans. It was a bit of a bumpy transition period, but now the transistion is complete and it's probably one of the best islands for caravans and motorhomes.

I intended to spend just a couple of days at Scurrival (Scuribhal) Campsite at Eoligarry in the North of the island, then tour around and try the other sites in order to report back. However, laziness and a contented sense of being settled kicked in, and ended up spending the entire week at Scurrival.

Now here's the thing that I'll be going into when I write about camping in the Outer Hebrides again: ONE WEEK at Scurrival cost me the same as ONE NIGHT on one of the campsites in Harris. Therefore the 'Airport Cafe' down the road got my business every day. Not only was the food good, there was free wifi and, of course, the daily theatre of being the only airport in the world where scheduled flights land on the beach.

After a fantastic week re-acquainting myself with the island of Barra, it was with heavy heart that I headed to Castlebay one last time to board the mv Clansman. Stupid, soppy, sentimental fool that I am, I spent most of the trip outside at the aft end, watching my beautiful, gorgeous islands slip slowly out of site with tears in my eyes. Mar sin leibh Na h-Innse Gall mo ghràibh. Tillidh mi air ais.

Hebrides 2012 Video

How could I forget? 

Naturally there is a video to go with the recent entries about the Hebrides. It's set to the music of awesome Scottish band Skerryvore.http://www.skerryvore.com/ 

Enjoy! 

Caravanning in the Outer Hebrides - 2012 Update

Summer 2012


For those of you who enjoyed last year's blog entry about caravanning in the Outer Hebrides, here's a little update.

Tiree and Barra continue to offer a network of crofts offering camping and caravanning, and wild camping is as good as non-existent. (Yes, I know that Tiree is Inner Hebrides, but it gets included as it is a jump-off point on the Thursday ferry to Barra.) For an up-to-date list of campsites on these islands, look up:

Isle of Tiree Camping

Isle of Barra Camping


As for the Uist Chain, encompassing Berneray, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay, a lot is happening very quickly.

The Caravan Club now has two Certificated Locations on the Uists, both of which are searchable by members only on the Caravan Club's website. One is at North Uist Boarding Kennels, and the other at North Boisdale on the island of South Uist.

New sites are popping up too.

In addition to Shell Bay on Benbecula (see earlier blog entry), there are now a few sites to choose from.

In June 2012 I finally stayed at Moorcroft, on the South West corner of North Uist, and am delighted to confirm that it is as good as all the reviews suggest. A wonderful little site indeed.

Two new sites have appeared in the meantime, both offering hardstanding pitches, hook-ups, and facility blocks.

Kilbride Campsite is on the South Coast of South Uist, on the road to the Eriskay causeway. It's directly opposite a small sandy beach and is already receiving good reviews.

Balranald Hebridean Holidays is a small campsite by the RSPB reserve of the same name on the North West coast of North Uist. Only a stroll from the beach, and already they have declared an interest in promoting kitesurfing in North Uist. How the birdwatchers are going to react to powerkites in the sky next to the RSPB reserve remains to be seen, but given the blazing rows I have had on the beach I can't see that it's going to be a happy or comfortable relationship. But I wish them well with the kitesurfing project and look forward to a little more company out on the water next year.

As for the islands of Lewis and Harris, little has changed. The only realistic options for caravanners on Harris are still Minch View (recommended smaller caravans only due to sharp corner and narrow entrance) and Horgabost Campsite. Horgabost is still a stunning place but has, in my humble opinion, been spoiled by the large amount of ugly seasonal caravans now moored there. At the end of the day, I guess they need to make a regular income I suppose. Horgabost is now £12/n for a caravan without hook-up... a bit steep for one person. 

There is now a comprehensive network of sites with facilities and hook-ups on all the major Hebridean islands. CalMac fares have come down dramatically in recent years. So the question remains - what's stopping you? Go and discover the Outer Hebrides, before everybody else does.

Caravanning in the Outer Hebrides

2011:

As a break from regular blogging, here's an entry that's a little different - A practical guide rather than a diary-type entry.

I thought that, after four trips to these magical islands with my Airstream, I should share a few details for those wishing to plan their own caravanning trip.


Situated off the North West coast of Scotland sit the remote and beautiful isles of the Outer Hebrides, or the Western Isles to give them their correct name.

If your perfect holiday encompasses wild, rugged, remote outdoors, then the Outer Hebrides will be Paradise on Earth. If you prefer shopping, clubbing, and amusements, then this is not the place for you.






There are many, many islands in the Outer Hebrides, but of the populated islands there are three main groups, starting with the largest in the North and ending with the smallest in the South:

Lewis & Harris
Technically one island, but these two lands have a totally different feel. Stornoway, the largest town in the Hebrides, is in Lewis.






The Uists
Seven islands for seven days, all interlinked by toll-free causeways. The three major islands are North Uist, Benbecula, and South Uist, while the four smaller islands are Berneray, Baleshare, Grimsay, and Eriskay.






Barra
Known as 'The Hebrides in miniature', this compact island offers all terrains in one handy package.






The Inner Hebridean island of Tiree also gets a mention as it is on the route of the Oban - Barra ferry (summer Thursdays) making for a further possibility.







HOW LONG HAVE YOU GOT?

For many people, it's a long slog to get there, so it's worth investing at least a week, but preferably three or four, in your stay. Suggested for different lengths of stay are:


LESS THAN A WEEK

Barra. You can taste it all without travelling about too much. Possibly do four or five days on Barra and three or four days on Tiree.


TWO TO THREE WEEKS
Lewis, Harris, and the Uists.


THREE TO FOUR WEEKS +
Lewis, Harris, the Uists, Barra, and Tiree



GETTING THERE

Caledonian MacBrayne is the only ferry operator serving the islands, offering a fixed price tariff. The price remains the same whether you book a year in advance or 5 minutes before the ferry leaves. Prices are therefore a little higher than you may expect against some of the Bargain Basement 'Buy-three-years-in-advance-and-travel-at-3am-on-a-Tuesday-in-February' type prices that you can get on international routes, but the upside is that you can buy single tickets along the way as you decide your itinerary, In other words, you have flexibility and freedom.





If you do book in advance and your plans change, you may change your reservation with no fee.

The only thing that does go up and down is the availability on ferries. If your time is short and dates are fixed, book as far in advance as you can. If your plans are fluid and your itinerary flexible, there is less need to book.

Bear in mind that if you want to travel between Tiree and Barra, there is only one ferry a week on a Thursday and this can get booked up months in advance.


From the mainland, you can travel from the following ports:

Ullapool, the Northernmost port, for Stornoway on Lewis

Uig, on the Isle of Skye (linked by the A87 Skye Bridge) for Tarbet in Harris, and for Lochmaddy in North Uist.

Oban, the nearest port to Glasgow and the South, for Tiree, Barra, and Lochboisdale on South Uist.


A HOPSCOTCH ticket allows you to take in a variety of islands on one ticket at a cheaper price than buying singles along the way. You only have to reserve your first outward crossing when you buy it, then you can reserve the rest along the way. In 2009, I took a Hopscotch from Ullapool to Stornoway (Lewis), drove to Harris, then got a ferry to the Uists, visited the islands there, then a ferry to Barra, then a ferry to Tiree, then a ferry to Oban. The total cost with the Airstream was about £400. Steep, but for the amount of ferry travel involved actually quite good value.





The CHEAPEST routes are from Uig on Skye. You can get a return for two passengers and an Airstream rig for just £133 to either the Uists or to Harris and Lewis. In other words, link the two with a mini-Hopscotch and you can take in nine islands for under £200. Not bad, huh? Plus the fact, the A87 road between Fort William and Uig is absolutely stunning. Drive it during daylight hours and don't rush.

The QUICKEST routes (for us Southerners) are from Oban. Granted, it's a five hour ferry crossing to Barra and South Uist, but you'll save the additional overnight stop involved in driving up to Uig from the South.



GETTING AROUND

The biggest concern of most Airstreamers, especially those with larger rigs, is getting around on the single track roads. In fact, it is as easy as pie. Personally I find the Outer Hebrides one of the easiest places in the country to tow, mainly because there is so little traffic on the road.





Many major routes have been or are being upgraded to two-way. Of the single track road remaining, there are passing places every few yards. In areas where forward vision is restricted (eg around a corner), the road will always be two-way.

Passing places are there to let traffic pass in both directions, so if you see anyone behind you, pull over and keep indicating (if there is no oncoming traffic) until the car(s) behind have passed. This is good for the locals who need to get about, good for leisure vehicle PR, good for your karma, and good for your blood pressure. You can continue at a relaxed pace and admire the scenery.

If someone coming the other way has pulled over to allow you to pass (they will indicate as a sign), KEEP GOING and don't think you're being polite by then stopping before passing them and waving them on. This is confusing, frustrating, and can be dangerous if there's someone behind you.





Don't forget to wave as thank you. In fact, just wave at everyone. Most people do. Even cars going the other way on a two-way road. Just wave. It's just what people do in the Hebrides and it's lovely.

Most of the causeways in the Uists are now wide and two-way. The major exception is Baleshare. This old causeway is quite narrow. I can tow my 7ft 6 wide trailer along it at about 25-30mph, but were I towing an 8ft wide trailer I would be crawling as there are jagged walls both sides. If I had a wide one, I would go solo first and take a look at it.


WHERE TO STAY

Hebrides is wild camping heaven, yes?

Er, no, it isn't.

In 2009, CalMac introduced 'Road Equivalent Tariff' pricing on many routes. In other words, it lowered the prices substantially. As a result, camper vans (which travel for the same price as a car) invaded in their droves.

This is not the place to get political about anything or point any fingers, as there are good and bad eggs in every basket. But when I visited in 2009, a story about a family in their camper van was spreading around the islands like wildfire. This family had boasted to some islanders that they had spent the grand total of £2 in their entire week on the islands. Meanwhile, certain beauty spots had been turned into eyesore car-parks of white aluminium and plastic. People weren't applying common sense, and erosion of the delicate machair was taking place. This wasn't 'light' free camping as envisaged by the Scottish Parliament when they passed the Freedom of Access laws. This was nothing more than people parking up for a free holiday and take, take, taking. It had to stop.

Wild camping with a vehicle has now been effectively banned on Tiree and on Barra. In fact, to even get a ferry ticket to Tiree, you will need to show proof of a reservation on a campsite or a camping croft.

Camping arrangements for the islands are as follows:

Lewis

Laxdale Holiday Park, near Stornoway
Laxdaleholidaypark.com. A great full-facility site making the perfect place to begin or end your Hebridean Odyssey. It can get very busy so booking is recommended, especially if you have a large rig as pitches can be quite small.



Eilean Fraoich, Campsite, Shawbost
Eileanfraoich.co.uk. I've not stayed there but it looks really nice. On the North West Coast of Lewis and handy for the Callanish Stones and the Arnol Blackhouse


Cnip
Much touted by Cool Camping and other guides, this site enjoys amazing views, but sadly the scattering of empty seasonal vans makes it less attractive than it could be otherwise


Harris

Minch View
Super little site, just like a certificated site on the mainland. Clean and simple facilities. The downside? While some may disagree, I personally would not take a twin-axle caravan there, the entrance is simply too tight

Horgabost
Once a wild camping spot, but has now become 'official'. No hook-up, and facilities in converted lorry containers. But a stunning, stunning location on a stunning beach. £10 per night per rig in 2009. Honesty box in operation.





There is another campsite on Harris made famous by a hairdresser in a TV documentary, but this one is unsuitable for trailer caravans.


The Uists

Moorcroft Holidays
Situated on the South West tip of North Uist, this recently-opened full-facility site has been getting rave reviews on the forums. See 2012 update (link at foot of this entry) for further details.

Shell Bay, Liniclate, Benbecula
Not the prettiest of sites and not the prettiest of islands in the Uist chain, but a superb, central location and an ideal base. A couple of minutes walk to the beach. Facilities are adequate and EHUs available. £7 per adult (2010) plus EHU.





There is a hostel on South Uist that has started to advertise a couple of pitches for caravans. I have not been there but the reviews on the forums have been very poor - cramped pitches and facilities not great.


Barra

A whole host of crofts now offer a camping spot or two. For an up-to-date list, see isleofbarra.com Be warned that many of them charge £10 per rig in exchange for nothing more than a fresh water supply.


Tiree

Just one campsite, and that is Balinoe Campsite.
EHUs are actually 13amp sockets in the barn, so take a 13amp 3-pin plug adaptor and an extension lead if you can. Facilities are OK, if a little scarce. During my visit in 2009, a new shed was about to be erected with further WCs and showers.
A nice touch is the kitchen and sitting room with free wifi, so even if you opt to go without EHU you can still plug in your phones and laptop to charge.

Otherwise, there are plenty of crofts that offer camping just like in Barra. For an up-to-date list see isleoftiree.com



There are still one or two places where low-impact wild camping is tolerated on some islands. Your best bet is to begin your stay at a proper site, and drive around and seek out these places solo. Do bear in mind if you choose to wild camp:

-Seek the landowner's permission
-Leave no trace
-Preferably just one, but maximum of three nights
-If the spot is starting to get busy, find another place
-Spend what you would otherwise spend on site fees in the local community. And tell people what you are doing to try and right the wrongs of the past.





Elsan waste must not be emptied into public WCs. The Barra and Tiree websites (see above) offer advice for these islands. For the Uists, there is Elsan disposal and a fresh water supply at the Berneray CalMac ferry pier, and at the Eriskay CalMac ferry pier.

If you do find 'The Perfect Spot', please do us all a favour and don't put it on the internet. If you do, there is the chance that irresponsible people may read it, invade, and spoil it for everyone.

Please note that I have now added an update for 2012 which you can read by clicking here.

Hopefully this little guide will help you decide whether or not the Outer Hebrides is for you. If it sounds like your kind of place, then go and enjoy. Just be warned... like many people you may leave your heart there. It means you have to return year after year to go looking for it.